Sonia Mi pregunta es si se teje la hilera cogiendo las cd de las mangas o hay que saltarlas para dejarlas libres y retomarlas en las mangas, gracias. Karin Pinter Hej igen! Mvh Karin. Rebecca If you want to leave a question , please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages.
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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment in cm at the bottom of the pattern. Read more. Pattern Photo Add to favorites. Pattern instructions. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English.
If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here. Please join us on Facebook where all the details are available as well as coaching and help from our encouraging crochet designers. Sounds like a good time to me! Now that you have your basic poncho shape you can find those instructions here we can finish the neckline and bottom edges and tie the fringe on. If you need the Spiral Illusion Square free pattern you can find that here. Please read through these instructions completely first to get a good overall understanding of the methods used.
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To Begin — Starting at the neck edge and using your main color- attach with a standing hdc in the back loop anywhere along the edge and work a hdc blo in each stitch around, finish with an invisible join there are many tutorials online and weave in the end. For the next row, we will attach an accent color and do a camel stitch, or work in the third loop or hump! The camel stitch is very simple once you get the hang of it, and looks great. It has the effect of tipping over the tops of the previous hdc row and looks like knitting.
When you are one stitch from the center of the V on each side, do a hdc decrease over this stitch and the center stitch at each V. Be sure to do this in the third loop so the previous row tips over in the center of the v-neck on each side. Finish with an invisible join and weave in the end. Now you will have two rows of hdc. For the third and final row of neck edge join with your main color and work sc camel stitch around, repeating the decrease in the v points of each side.
Finish this row off with an invisible join and weave in your end. Bottom Edge — For the bottom edge of the poncho, we begin by joining with your Main Color. Dc in the blo of each stitch around the bottom edge, including the corner stitches but ignoring the raised sc joining of the squares. Next row- join with your accent color and hdc around in the blo of the previous row of dc.
Finish with an invisible join and weave in end. Row 3 of Edge- Join with Main color and sc in the third loop of the previous row hdc.
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Finish with an invisible join. Row 4 of Edge- dc in blo across. Finish with invisible join fasten off and weave in end. At this point, all we have left is the fringe! I mentioned in a previous post some tips about ponchos and fringe find that here. The method I use is simple.
Choose something slightly longer than the fringe size that you want. A book works, or an old DVD cover, even cardboard.
No 2 3 Treble Group Cardigan Crochet pattern by Mrs Shears
Fringe — Wrap three times around book holding the end of the yarn with your finger each time you wrap. While holding the fringe loops with your finger, cut the bottom evenly through all loops. Carefully slide the fringe off and hold by the top. I like to slide my crochet hook through a stitch from the wrong side to the front, then I loop the center of the fringe onto the hook and pull through until I have just a loop.
To make a larks head knot I put my fingers through the loop and pull the fringe ends through and tug it snug but not too tight. Skip one stitch and repeat around the bottom edge until you complete all the fringe. Hopefully, you have completed four of the Spiral Illusion Squares from the previous post, you can find that here. Please read these instructions completely to understand the construction method before starting! You will need one skein of yarn for each of your colors, plus an additional skein of your chosen main color, including fringe. Once you have all four of your squares finished you will have 52 stitches per side, not including corner chains.
We will be joining the squares using the Back Loop Only blo of the 52 single crochets on the side of the squares. To begin — Lay two finished squares stacked one above the other, with right sides facing you. Join the two squares together by using a standing single crochet through both corners together with right sides facing up. You may also use a slip st ch 1 and then a single crochet through both corner spaces. When you have finished the sc in the corner leave that loop on your hook, or use a stitch marker, as we will be using that active loop to carry on attaching the next square.
Lay your two attached squares down vertically right sides up. The key to adding the third square is that you must position it correctly. I am right handed so when I lay my squares down vertically I add the third square to the left, to form a backward L or a V shape. At this point, you will go around the corner and carry on with single crocheting the squares together. With the loop that is still on your hook, or working loop work a single crochet in the same corner space of the last stitch from the last square and also through the corner of the new square.
Then continue in the blo for the rest of the new square. You will have gone around two sides of the center square without having to break off your yarn. When you finish the corner sc then you may finish off and weave in the end. Now you have three squares together in a V shape. I find that the best way to position the fourth and final square is to flip the 3 attached squares upside down or wrong side facing up.
Then fold the side squares in half toward the center square. Next lay the fourth square right side up diagonally on top of the center square. This should all line up and mirror the opposite side. Be sure to have all the same sides facing outward. When your squares are in the correct position you will repeat single crocheting them together. In the next corner sc through both corner ch spaces, and then through the center square corner and the next square corner. In this top corner, you will go around the corner continuously without breaking your yarn exactly as you did for the first side.
Carry on sc in blo for the rest of the side. Finish off, weave in end. In the next post, I will share with you how to finish off the edges of this beauty, including fringe. Here is a new free crochet pattern for a spiral turned into a square. This is actually the first part of a new poncho pattern coming soon. I wanted to share the square first that I used to design the poncho. A square and a poncho that is kind of the crochet version of a spiral tie-dye t-shirt. The squares can be made in varying color combinations.
From 4 different colors to three colors where one is repeated, or 2 colors where both colors are doubled for a bolder look. I have made several color combinations now, and have had fun playing and using up that ever-present leftover stash of yarn. It seems the more I crochet the more yarn I have! How does that happen? Notes : American terms used throughout. This pattern has four different legs to the spiral, these can be done in four different colors, 3 colors where one color will be used twice, and a two-color version which has each leg of the spiral doubled for a bolder look.
Different looks for the same number of stitches. Each leg is worked exactly the same way. Stitch markers can be used to keep the active loop of each leg safe while you are working the other legs. The pattern is written in rounds and rows from one corner to the next. The following photo tutorial is four different colors. Please read through the entire instructions first for an overall view of the pattern.
Once the pattern has been worked up to Row 7, you will be continuing in a granny stitch of 2 dc in each chain space with a ch 1 between and 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc corners. Easy peasy.
Round 2 — Into the sc of previous leg work 2 dc, in the hdc work one dc, into the dc work 2 dc, into the trc work one dc. Repeat for each of the other 3 legs. Rnd 3 — Chain 1, dc in next stitch, skip 1, 2 dc in next, 2 dc in next, skip 1, dc. Repeat for all legs of the spiral. Row 4 — 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc all into the chain space, the first corner made ch 1 sk 1, 2 dc in next, ch 1 sk 1, 2 dc in next, ch 1 sk 1, 2 dc in next. Total of 3 dc clusters. Then work the corner 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in ch 2 sp. Note: From here forward we will be working from one corner to the next.
Ending each row with a corner. Row 7 — Ch 1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across row. Ch 1, work corner 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Row 8 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across. Row 9 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across. Row 10 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across.
Lace Fabric Sweater
Row 11 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across. Row 12 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across. Row 13 — Ch1, 2 dc in each ch 1 sp across. Tags: circle , lace , square , sweaters ,.
Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter! Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment in cm at the bottom of the pattern.
Read more. Pattern Photo Add to favorites. Pattern instructions. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch. Then continue working in the round, then back and forth over this square. Work A. Then work in the round as follows: Work A. When A. The square measures now approx. Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 single crochets, the next round starts from here. Continue in the round as follows: Work A.
Crochet square measures approx. Start by the cross in one corner the strand must be cut before continuing — see sketch, and work as follows: Work A. Cut and fasten the strand. Repeat on the opposite side of the piece — see cross in sketch. Cut the strand. Now work back and forth outwards on each side of the jumper without increases. Start by the cross in the one corner — see sketch, and work as follows: Work A. Cut and fasten the strand after the last row in both sizes. Repeat on the opposite side of the piece — see cross on sketch.
The other 3 sides are now finished. ROW 3: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet. Work the other shoulder in the same way, but reversed. Start in the one side from the wrong side and work 3 treble crochets around each of the 2 rows from A. ROW 4: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet. Work the other shoulder, but reversed. Turn ROW 3: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet. Now work back and forth along the whole side up towards the neck and then work the shoulder.
Related no 2 3 Treble Group Cardigan Crochet Pattern (mrs crochet designer)
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